Correct. The CVT shafts, clutches, bearings were all designed assuming no CVT cover support, just like every other CVT on a UTV.
That's why high horsepower UTVs use a custom brace with bearings for the clutches, because every unsupported arm will flex under load.
If that was the case, then Robby would never run it without the CVT cover. But he has. It doesn’t need it, but it does help.
My last try.
So we agree it is okay to run without the clutch cover.
No, we do not agree.
Not complaining. Just sharing information.
The 'Complain' was not directed at you, it is the principal of freedom.
They are supported by just as many bearings as a Polaris is without the cover. The whole 'double shear clutch system' is just a gimmick to add to Robby's obsession with double shear. I am certain the tolerance on those clutch cover bearings are pretty damn loose, just to make removing the clutch cover even possible.
If this was such a huge issue, don't you think the current big players would have done something about it by now? As far as I know, Speed is the only utv company that runs a design like this. And as stated in my last post I think this is more of a design 'feature' to go inline with their whole "double shear everything" marketing pitch.
Yamaha uses a outside shaft bearing support on the primary.
Reason why utv and snowmobile companies don't offer double shear support would most likely be due to cost savings (removing the olive from the jar scenario). Running the clutches in double shear helps to reduce load on the bearings and the shafts which is a fact. Another big reason is to reduce/eliminate belt deflection which should reduce belt temps and increase belt life.
Same here.
Snowmobiles don't necessarily see the same ambient temperatures as they operate in opposite climates, but they get just as hot. My current sled is pushing 270hp and abuses the belt pretty badly, and unfortunately, I have to be aware of belt temps on it too. Mountain sleds also experience a lot of resistance turning a big track and running in deep snow. I'd say it's close to what a utv sees in the sand.
GH: unless they just got through taking the belt out of the fridge and put it on the car, I don't see how a belt can be 40 degrees when the ambient air temp is over 100. So my guess is, the belt temp sensor or indicator was not functioning properly. I do recall seeing erroneous belt temp readings at one point (many months ago during testing), but I haven't heard of that issue happening since then.
Somebody at the time mentioned dry ice. It was the video at Glamis I'll look for it
Somebody at the time mentioned dry ice. It was the video at Glamis I'll look for it
Thanks for the info, then it must go back to a crappy belt theory. I've had belts Go in the past until I started running Bad Azz belts and replacing at the beginning of each season.
I think it's good practice to start each riding season with a new belt. I also think it's good practice to use compressed air to blow out the clutch sheaves on a regular basis throughout each riding season.
